The Los Angeles Conservancy is passionate about downtown L.A.'s past, and it showcases the city's classic architecture on its weekly Historic Core Walking Tour. From the brick facade of the grand old Biltmore Hotel to the thrilling interior of the famed Bradbury Building, Angelenos and out-of-towners alike discover there's more to L.A. architecture than endless strip mall sprawl.

On Saturday mornings, the docent-led tour meets in the opulent Spanish Renaissance-style Rendezvous Court of the Millennium Biltmore Hotel. This grande dame of downtown hotels opened in 1923, and the original lobby is a stunner, with its ornate hand-painted ceiling and classic baroque staircase. Over the years, the Biltmore has hosted U.S. presidents, Academy Awards ceremonies and appeared in countless movies, including the original Ghostbusters.

Across the street sits L.A.'s oldest park, Pershing Square, which was laid out in 1866 and named in honor of General John Pershing after World War I. In the 1920s and '30s, the five-acre square was a lush oasis in the heart of downtown L.A.'s concrete jungle. Palm and banana trees lined shady pathways, and the Central Library rolled out a "loan-a-book" cart for word-hungry workers on their lunch break.

Today's Pershing Square, given a facelift in 1994 by Mexican architect Ricardo Legoretta, is a study in bold colors and abstract design. As the tour group shuffles past the square's

Brother, Can You Spare A Dime? The revitalization of downtown L.A. has made headlines in recent years, but that doesn't mean the residents of nearby Skid Row won't be looking for a handout. The homeless are usually harmless, but use caution if walking the area east of Hill Street after dark.

waterfall-freshened pool and 125-foot-high purple carillon tower, take a minute to savor the ground-level perspective of the soaring downtown skyline. It's a view no one should miss.

The tour breezes down 5^th Street and takes in architectural jewels, such as the 14-story Southern California Edison Co. Building, now known as One Bunker Hill. The lobby boasts gorgeous Art Deco details that include decorative zigzag patterns, a wonderful mural by the great Hugo Ballin, and a coffered ceiling that casts a warm glow on the marble floors and walls. The Pre-Art Deco Moderne Los Angeles Central Public Library opened in 1922 and is crowned with a glorious sunburst-emblazoned pyramid.

At the corner of 5^th and Hill streets, signature L.A. architects John and Donald Parkinson (Bullocks Wilshire) created one of their lesser-known but equally brilliant Art Deco masterpieces with the 1930 Title Guarantee and Trust Building. On Broadway, the 1918 Million Dollar Theatre sports one of the area's more flamboyant terra cotta facades — a mélange of Mexican-inspired ornamentation, including longhorn cattle skulls and bison heads.

Next door, Grand Central Market is a great place to grab lunch when the tour wraps up. Built in 1897 and converted to a market 20 years later, this bustling food bazaar is a feast for the senses. The mouth-watering aromas wafting out of more than 50 vendor stalls tempt the taste buds with everything from tacos and teriyaki to pigs feet and Philly cheesesteak.

Nearby, the 1893 Bradbury Building is a prime example of why a book shouldn't be judged by its cover. While the building's brick facade isn't worth a second look, the interior's central court is mesmerizing. Offices open onto balconies that wrap around the atrium-like court, where sunlight streams in through a pitched glass ceiling five stories overhead, bathing the glazed brick walls in a golden light.

The Bradbury's Victorian details are dazzling. Staircases are made of Belgian marble, and black-iron latticework decorates railings and a pair of open-cage elevators. Though the building is over a century old, its look and ambiance are timeless. Mining tycoon Lewis Bradbury commissioned the building and, according to legend, rookie architect George Wyman designed it only after his dead brother contacted him through a Ouija board and said, "Take the Bradbury. It will make you famous."

While the Bradbury gets the lion's share of oohs and ahs from tour takers, L.A. Conservancy docent Paul Polacek has a less obvious favorite. "By far, it's the circa 1921 Pacific Mutual Building on 6^th Street," he said. "The interior lobby is one of the grandest in downtown L.A." Indeed, the glistening marble floors, elegant staircases and barrel-vaulted entry recall that bygone era when office buildings had style.   NEXT: NEED TO KNOW>>>