French Twist
Taking a taxi to the VIA Central Station for my train ride to Québec, I got caught up in the blur of rush-hour commuters coming and going through an array of passageways that led to the trains. I boarded a train that would deliver me in Québec City, and then settled back against my padded seat in one of the front cars for the 2½-hour ride.

We pulled into Québec City on schedule, but somewhere along the way Old Man Winter had decided to let us know he was still the boss and whipped up a blizzard that blanketed the old city in a cloth of finely spun snowflakes. Outside the fairytale facade of the Gare du Palais station, I was whisked off by taxi to my hotel, the castle-like Fairmont Le Chateau Frontenac. I entered the lobby amid a swirl of evening gowns and tuxedos, as a holiday party was in full swing in the main ballroom.

Content to just enjoy the ambiance of the Chateau, I ventured into the circular bar at the far end of the hotel, snuggled into an oversized armchair in front of a blazing fire and, over a Bailey's and decaf, watched as the snow blew furiously outside the windows overlooking the frozen St. Lawrence River.

After a restful sleep in my comfortable room, I donned my winter gear and made a beeline to La Musée de la Civilisation (Museum of Civilization), one of my favorite museums. In particular, the museum is known for hosting exhibits focused on unusual topics ("sand" was one of them when I was there). There's also a worthwhile museum shop and a visitor's lounge that allows guests free Internet access.

But downstairs in the basement is where history really comes alive for the little ones. Set up for families with children ages 3 to 10, the space is designed to mimic a village in France from the Middle Ages. Kids can dress up in period-style clothing color-coded by age so they can dress themselves. There are props (baskets for doing your marketing, foam bricks for building castle walls) and playhouses (an inn, a tailor's, the market). Signs describe the setting and a bit about village life 800 years ago.

I'd read a flyer the day before describing the afternoon tea held at Le Champlain restaurant at the Chateau Frontenac, so I made a point of retracing my steps to the hotel early in the afternoon. Entering the elegant surroundings of the restaurant, I was quick to note that in the corner of the room there was a special gathering — young children having tea with Madame Rose, the hotel's resident expert on Victorian etiquette.

Tea with Madame Rose is offered every Saturday at 3 p.m. during the winter months, and three times per week during the summer. And although it isn't mandatory for children to dress up, they do: Boys and girls alike seem to relish the chance to wear their best clothes when they sense something special is happening, and going for tea at the Chateau apparently qualifies. The tea included a fruit plate, three-level plate service with mini-sandwiches, scones, pastries and, of course, tea.

The tea service proved to be just the right choice since it allowed me a chance to relax in the warmth and comfort

A Competitive Edge If you're a winter sports fanatic, plan your trip during a special competition that brings participants from all over the world, including the Snowboard World Cup or the cross-country marathon (or "Loppet") at Mont Saint-Anne; the International Pee-Wee Hockey Tournament (held in Québec City) is another option.

of Le Champlain and then wander through the hotel's boutiques before getting ready for the evening's meal at Auberge Baker, a country inn on the outskirts of the city.

Beginning with a soul-satisfying appetizer of phyllo pastry and Baie-St.-Paul cheese served with a maple syrup sauce, my holiday meal then segued into a hearty platter of grilled vegetables and concluded with a trio of deserts from the kitchen's pastry chef. I was charmed by the warmth and casual attentiveness of the staff and, curious about the lodging, snuck upstairs for a peek at the rooms on the second floor. They looked cozy and comfortable, and I made a note to myself to consider staying at the Auberge the next time I was traveling by car.

The following day (my last in Québec) found me wandering in the Saint-Roch district, enveloped in a blanket of soft snow as I attempted to make a dent in my Christmas gift list. And while the snow fell gently around me, I once again marveled at the chance to feel so far from home, yet comforted by the knowledge that I'd be in my own bed by nightfall.
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Top photograph by Yves Tessier, Tessima; bottom photograph courtesy of Fairmont Le Château Frontenac