Grunion make their annual appearance on Southland beaches

By Paul M. Young

They may be fish out of water, but when it comes to romance, the California grunion are kings. Only when the moon is right, the stars are twinkling, and the weather is warm enough will the silvery fish flop onto sandy beaches between Point Conception in Santa Barbara County and Punta Abreojos, Mexico, for their annual mating ritual.

These days, however, Leuresthes tenuis are hardly getting any privacy. During grunion season — between late February and early September — the late-night rendezvous are witnessed by thousands of people who wait in the dark to watch the flirtatious fish in the heat of passion. It's a fascination that has been drawing people to Southern California beaches for years.

"We've gotten people from China, Korea, Japan, and Germany because this fish is so unusual," says Larry Fukuhara, programs director for the Cabrillo Marine Aquarium, on Cabrillo Beach in San Pedro. The fish has an equally bizarre cousin, Leuresthes sardina, which courts on beaches during the day and night in the Gulf of California. But L. tenuis can only be found on this sliver of coastline, where hunting for them has become an annual tradition for some.

Fukuhara, who runs a popular "grunion run" program at the aquarium, says that as many as 2,500 people will come to watch the fish at one time. Aquarium staff members first teach them about the mysterious creatures, then take them to the beach, where they wait for hours, wearing gloves and hats to keep warm in the cool night air. They sit quietly, since vibrations in the ground will often scare the sea dwellers.

Then, if the observers are lucky, the romance begins. A few male scouts ride the surf to the beach to make sure the coast is clear. Then, the females ride to the highest point on the beach, where they drill themselves into the sand and lay between 2,000 and 3,000 pinhead-size eggs. Meanwhile, the males curl themselves around the females and release their milt, which runs down the females' sides, fertilizing the eggs.

Intriguing to scientists is that the females must lay their eggs at the perfect time and in the perfect environment, or the eggs will be destroyed. The fish time their egg laying one to four days after a full or new moon, when the tides are high. The eggs sit several inches below the sand, where they are usually protected from the sun and predators (such as gulls) for 10 days, at which point another equally high tide uncovers them and drags them into the sea. The influx of seawater and the shaking motion causes them to hatch. "When you think about it, you wonder, How do they know?" Fukuhara says. "But they just do."

Fish Out of Water California grunion are expected to run several nights in July and August. The times given are the beginning of the two-hour period in which spawning could occur. Grunion run times, which are calculated by the California Department of Fish and Game, are based on the days following the full and new moons. This is when tides are predicted to be ideal for grunion egg laying. — P.M.Y. Date July 1 July 2 July 4 July 5 July 15 July 16 July 18 July 19 July 30 July 31 August 2 August 3 August 13 August 14 August 16 August 17 August 29 August 31 September 1 Time 10:40 p.m. 11:20 p.m. 12:10 a.m. 1:05 a.m. 11 p.m. 11:45 p.m. 12:30 a.m. 1:20 a.m. 10:35 p.m. 11:15 p.m. midnight 12:55 a.m. 10:45 p.m. 11:25 p.m. midnight 12:45 a.m. 11:10 p.m. midnight 1 a.m.

So fascinated is Karen Martin, professor of biology at Pepperdine University, that she is studying the grunion's population status, habits, and biology. "We really don't know much about grunion," Martin says. "They are veiled in mystery."

Some people have had such a tough time finding grunion that they don't believe the fish exist, saying a search for them is like hunting the ever-elusive snipe. "That's because people don't wait long enough. They get tired and go home," Martin says. "Many times, people will be in the water, with their flashlights on, and grunion don't like that. The fish won't come."

The truth is that the fish have been around for a long time. Although they were first documented in the 1800s, when scientists found the first grunion specimen in San Francisco Bay, the fish were likely discovered much earlier. Native Americans described them as the "fish out of water." Grunion were also mentioned by Spanish explorer Juan Cabrillo in a ship's log.

Some say their name derives from a Spanish word meaning "grunter," although whether the fish actually grunts is debatable. Neither Fukuhara nor Martin has ever heard the sound. Some also argue over whether they're fit for the kitchen table.

"I cooked them for my kids for breakfast once, and they said they were pretty salty and all bone," Martin says. "For me? I don't like to eat my colleagues."

Fukuhara, however, says he's found a way to make them pleasing to the palate. First, remove the grunion's head, scales, and innards. Dip the fish in flour, then place it in a frying pan with olive oil. Add garlic, chopped onions, and celery and cook the fish until they are browned on each side. Add a bit of lemon juice, a splash of red wine, and the secret ingredient: honey.

Keep in mind, however, that in grunion circles, it's not a great way to end a date.

Paul M. Young reports on the environment for the Long Beach Press-Telegram.

See Grunion Run

Cabrillo Marine Aquarium, at 3720 Stephen White Drive in San Pedro, hosts the most established grunion run programs in Southern California. You can attend one on July 1 or July 15. The aquarium opens at 8 p.m., and the program begins at 9 p.m. Warm clothing and a flashlight are recommended. Tickets, which are sold at the door, are $5 for adults and $1 for children and seniors. Participants can take fish from the beach, but they may only use their hands. If they are 16 or older, they must have a California fishing license. For more information, call (310) 548-7562 or visit www.cabrilloaq.org. — P.M.Y.

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